Early last year I was experimenting with sewing knits. I was placing an order at Minerva Crafts and saw this rib knit and just knew I had to have it and it would make a lovely cardigan or jumper. Unfortunately it then sat in my stash for ages until about a month ago when I bought an overlocker on impulse from Lidl – I’ve been debating buying one for ages, and didn’t really want to buy an expensive one until I knew whether I would use it or not. I decided that I needed a pattern that didn’t need to be particularly well fitting in order to give the overlocker a fair try – enter this fabric and the free scarf neck cardigan pattern from Swoon Patterns. Continue reading
Category: Ladies clothes
About 15 years ago I owned a gorgeous RTW jacket. It was Faux suede on the outside, and a beautiful soft and warm faux fur on the inside. After much wear that jacket had to be disposed of, but ever since that day I’ve been trying to find a suitable replacement. When I was lucky enough to win a copy of Wendy Wards Beginners Guide to Dressmaking book, I decided that instead of looking for the jacket, I should look for similar material instead. Fast forward a while and I popped into Fabricland in Bristol just for a look around; in there I found this beautifully soft and cosy faux shearling. This material then sat in my stash (taking up a lot of space!) for about a year until I decided that I needed to get over my fear of it and get it sewn up.
I knew that before I went near the fabric I would need to adjust the fit of the pattern, just from looking at the final garment measurements I could see that I needed an FBA, and a simple measurement showed that I needed to lower the bust dart somewhat! Research showed that I should undertake the FBA first, as this process would naturally lower the bust point slightly, and then lower the bust dart by the required amount to ensure the extra space was where the girls actually require it. This worked out surprisingly well and the tissue-fit made me very happy. (NB – in all the finished photos you can see that the jacket doesn’t appear to fit so well as I had hoped – it actually fits much better than it appears, and it’s just how I’d put it on that day – I’m not going to take more photos to prove it though 🙂 )As such, I cut out the fabric using my altered front pattern piece and started work on the construction. The very first step is to apply interfacing, this is understandable, but in all honesty I took some convincing that thin strips of interfacing would adhere to the fleecy side of the fabric. I spent hours deliberating different ways around this, before my husband asked if I had actually tried to attach interfacing in the normal manner; cue much huffing and puffing from me about how it obviously wouldn’t work…then I tried it, and it did work. I’m still not sure whether I was more happy that it had worked, or more unhappy that I was wrong 🙂
Following that I clipped the fabric pieces together for a quick fitting – I needed to take a smaller seam allowance at the top of the centre back seam, and a larger seam allowance down the arms to the cuffs (I like my cuffs to be relatively tight to prevent draughts!) other than that though we were good to go.
Construction of the pieces was rather more straightforward than I had anticipated – I used my walking foot to help feed the bulky material through my machine and other than the sheer bulk of the fabric at some points, I had no problems actually sewing the material although identifying where the edge of the fabric was, could be tricky!
Once the pattern pieces were all together I decided that I actually wanted the jacket to be a bit longer than it was. I debated what to do about this, but ended up adding a contrast band to the base of the jacket. This is literally a 10cm wide piece of fabric, not cut on the bias, which goes around the whole base of the jacket. This is then folded up on itself to give a 4.5cm contrast band at the hem of the jacket. It’s worth noting that with this additional length and the FBA I needed a longer zip than the pattern called for. It’s also worth noting that when the black of the zip was against the suede side of the fabric it looked ok, but with the contrast band, the bottom 4cm of the zip stuck out like a sore thumb against the off-white of the fleecy side. I had intended to bind this visible part of the zip with black bias binding to improve the look, and so I ended up encasing the lower portion of the zip in cream bias binding. Getting the black binding to overlay the cream at exactly the right point turned out to be far more fiddly than it had any right to be, but I am happy with the end result.
Bias binding the seams took a considerable amount of time. To be honest, I think that it would have been easier if I’d done it before I added the contrast band at the bottom, but for a lot of the seams I’d probably bind the edges before constructing the jacket next time, especially with such a bulky fabric. I’m pleased with the result though. I’d originally wanted to use a contrast colour for the binding, to give the inside a bit of colour, but the colours didn’t seem to work against the off-white of the fleecy side, so I went with black in the end. I’m glad I did, because I’d not really thought about how it would look around the collar!
The next step was the collar; I found this much trickier than I’d anticipated. I’m not sure why, but the pattern piece didn’t seem to fit for me. This is probably because of the FBA and also the narrower seam allowance at the top centre back. I also made this more complicated for myself, because I am much more likely to wear this with more of a V-neck, than completely zipped up. As such, I wanted the collar piece to not meet at the centre of the neck. These issues resulted in me having to basically re-draft the pattern piece, which, to cut a long story short, assisted in the nearly-completed jacket standing on my dress-form for approximately 6 months.
Eventually I built up the confidence to carry out the redrafting, and it was a lot easier than I anticipated. I am happy with the final result. I used some black suedette that was left over from the two GBSB skirts as the under-collar, purely because I thought the thickness of the faux-shearling wouldn’t work well in a double layer!
I have now been wearing this jacket for a few weeks – it is so comfortable and soft, and super-warm.
There have been a couple of days where I’ve closed the zip fully, but on most days I’ve been right to make it more of a v-neck. I am so pleased I’ve made this, and so proud to wear it.
It seems ages ago now, but when I first saw the walkaway dress on the Great British Sewing Bee, I knew I wanted to try and make it. The construction alone seemed so different from any of the dresses I have made (admittedly not that many!) that I wanted to make it to just see how it was made. A year later, and I was given the book to accompany the series (Fashion with Fabric) and in that book was the pattern for the Walkaway Dress. I still wanted to make it, but I knew that I wouldn’t ever want to actually wear it! As that realisation dawned, I set aside the idea of making it, as really, who wants to spend precious sewing time on something that is never going to be worn – add to that the use of precious fabric, and that was it – the dream died.
Recently I decided to see what Instagram is all about, and signed up (if you want, you can follow me @sewsmartuk). I stumbled across another sewists post regarding a pattern relay for Simplicity 2245.
Essentially the idea is that if you win, you trace the pattern (no cutting allowed so that it can be passed on to others) and then make up one of the views in a month. You then post your finished garment, and do a giveaway for the next person to make it up in a month. Well, as I think you may be aware, I’m not the fastest sewist in the world, and when I found out I had won, I was rather nervous about making up a garment within a month – especially over the school holidays, with work, children at home, and all of the other calls on time.
I decided that although it’s not my usual style, I just had to make the dress, so once the pattern pieces were traced, I started cutting the fabric that I had bought especially for this pattern (typically, I didn’t have anything suitable in my stash) which meant I just had to buy some of this gorgeous Liberty Tana Lawn, from Abakhan.Continue reading
OK, so here’s the thing; I love wearing pyjama bottoms – I’ve reached that stage in life where when I’m home and not entertaining I want to be comfortable. There is just about nothing better in the world than coming home after a busy day and changing out of work clothes into pyjama bottoms. You’ll notice though, I’m stressing the bottoms here – I don’t actually find woven pyjama tops all that comfortable, and I’m afraid my favourite pyjama tops are actually long or short sleeved t-shirts that have pilled (I’m pretty certain that’s the official way of saying “gone bobbly”) or are otherwise not suitable for wearing out of the house any longer.Continue reading
Hi, it’s been a while since I posted here. Sewing has been continuing, but not blogging unfortunately. Anyway, I’m really pleased to say that I’ve completed another project with my Use 5 fabrics. I started off with about 1.5m of beautifully soft drapey t-shirt fabric. I’m afraid I can’t be any more specific than that – I bought it from Abakhan’s from their “T-shirt” fabric basket. I bought the pattern a couple of years ago from Jaycotts, along with a load of other New Look patterns that just happened to be on sale when I was browsing. Unlike everyone else it now appears (just see the number of reviews on pattern review) I wasn’t particularly excited about sewing all the gathers; I bought it because I wanted to have a knit top pattern. When it came to making this top I was slightly concerned that I wouldn’t have enough fabric for view A, but I had more than enough for the simple top, so I decided to chance it, working on the theory that worst case I would end up with shorter sleeves, or possibly a sleeveless top. The one thing I didn’t like about view A was the 3/4 length sleeves. I find I fiddle with 3/4 length sleeves all the time when I wear them, so long sleeves would be ideal, as with a double layer of fabric in the front I didn’t think this would become a summer top.Continue reading
I have been intrigued (and scared) of sewing knits for a good couple of years, never quite knowing where and how to start, but about 18 months ago I came across the Lindy Petal Skirt from Itch to Stitch. It’s a free pattern, and looked to be a pretty good place to start – only 3 main pattern pieces plus a simple elastic waistband, and to top it off, in a style that I thought would work well in my office wardrobe. Once I had found the pattern though, I had to find the material…loads of things I’d read mentioned that Ponte di Roma is a good knit fabric to start with, but I had no idea what it was like, so didn’t really want to order it online, and none of my local fabric shops stocked anything in a knit, so I had no clue what sort of fabric it would be. That then, led to a big delay in actually doing anything about it, until my husband and I went away for a couple of days and found, just around the corner from the hotel, a branch of Abakhan’s! Wow! I was overwhelmed, and very pleased to find some navy Ponte di Roma for a reasonable price. Googling the fabric requirements, I popped in to Abakhan’s the next day, and bought the required 1.5m to make my very own Lindy Petal Skirt.Continue reading
I don’t know whether every sewist is the same, but some patterns hang around for a long time in my pattern stash waiting for their time in the sun. This pattern has been waiting patiently to be made for 25 years – but it’s finally had its turn, and I love this pattern! It’s a pattern from Prima magazine, from November 1991.
My mum bought Prima fairly regularly back in the ‘90’s, and between us we kept some of the patterns (although not all unfortunately). This pattern has probably been overlooked for a couple of reasons – the first being that it’s described on the sheet as a sequin top. That’s probably not that off-putting for most people, but I don’t really do sequins – in case you’ve not noticed, I very rarely do patterns, let alone sparkles! The second reason is that I don’t have the instructions for the pattern and also it’s designed for knits – so with my very limited experience of sewing knits, I’m afraid it’s just lurked at the bottom of my pattern box. Continue reading
This is the first time I’ve made a pattern twice. I’m not sure why I’ve never done it before, I just haven’t, despite having some patterns that I’ve loved. (Does it have something to do with my childhood, where my parents would buy one of whatever in every colour? I can understand why, I’m notoriously picky about clothes in some ways, so to find something I like was probably a minor miracle which shouldn’t be wasted!) That, in itself, was enough of a novelty that I felt that this fulfilled my objective of something new with every make. I really wanted to learn from the mistakes that I had made the first time around and make a much better skirt the second time around, treating the purple as a wearable muslin. Continue reading
When I bought fabric for my daughters shirred dress I decided that it would also be useful practice to make a dress for myself following the adult version of the pattern from the Great British Sewing Bee Fashion with Fabric book. (OK, so I’ve had my daughter asking me for years why I don’t wear dresses more often, and I succumbed!). As such, I also bought 2m of some very cheap striped navy and white cotton (or poly cotton?) with the intention of turning it into such a dress. Six-months down the line, and I actually started this project. When I showed my husband the material to ask whether the stripes should be vertical or horizontal, he laughed, and said that it didn’t matter, as I was going to look like a deck-chair either way, so now it’s the deck-chair dress!Continue reading